Frequently asked
questions |
Your kits are made from
mdf. This really isn't a suitable material for outdoor use is
it?
Only if you mean
regular mdf. When this material gets damp it expands, or "blows", and is ruined.
However the material we use is moisture proof mdf, commonly known as
"green" mdf. If this material absorbs moisture it doesn't blow and can be dried
out. The mdf manufacturer recommends sealing the edges of green mdf to prevent
moisture ingress (more about this below).
One of our original buildings
(an engine shed) has been outside for three years. The material is still fine
and the building has needed only a little maintenance in that time - principally
re-gluing a couple of the roof pieces that had come adrift. No fault of the
mdf.
Just after Christmas we put together one of our lineside building
kits, sealing the edges as described in our instructions. The building then went
outside, otherwise unpainted and untreated, and it has survived snow, sleet,
rain, frost, and sunshine. We showed the building to visitors to our stand at
the National Garden Railway Show at Stoneleigh this year and they were most
impressed.
And perhaps most impressive of all, we have a Raven Square
frontage kit outside. When it was examined after the heavy rain we had before
Christmas it looked decidedly water-logged inside. This was the result of
inadequate sealing (not following the instructions properly!). The building was
brought inside and put on top of a central heating boiler for a few days. We
weighed it when we brought it in and we weighed it again after it had dried out.
The final weight was 0.75kg lighter than when the building was brought in! The
building didn't suffer any adverse effects despite absorbing the equivalent of a
full wine bottle's worth of moisture - proof indeed that "green" mdf is suitable
for year-round outdoor use. |
What do I seal the edges
with?
The mdf
manufacturer recommends using diluted pva glue. (We presume exterior grade pva
glue.) However, based on the recommendation of Ian Sharples, an award winning
model maker, we use thinned glass fibre resin (diluted 50/50 with cellulose
thinners). We have also recently tried using Thomson's Water Seal. We'll let you
know how it goes. Incidentally, for best results we also seal the surfaces of
the mdf as well as the cut edges. This should minimise the opportunity for
moisture ingress.
In the past we tried using liquid rubber (used for
repairing the roofing felt on flat roofs) for sealing the edges. This seemed
like a good idea, but in practice it didn't form as good a seal as thinned fibre
glass resin. |
What should I use to
stick the buildings together?
Our indoor display models are put together using industrial grade
"superglue" (Cyanoacrylate). We don't know how well this would perform outside
in the long term, so the buildings on our railway are put together using Evo-Stik
"Serious Stuff Wet Grab" adhesive. This works very
well. |
What about sticking the
textured plastic sheets to the mdf?
Again, Evo-Stik
"Serious Stuff Wet Grab" adhesive. The sheets on our display buildings
are stuck on using industrial grade "superglue" (Cyanoacrylate) but this doesn't
give all over coverage and "Wet Grab" is better. |
Any other
tips?
Well, based on
our three year old engine shed, apart from sealing the edges, which is
essential, painting the building inside and out seems to assure a long
life. The other thing that seems to be important is to make sure the joint at
the apex of the roof is well sealed and covered over. |
What paint do you
use?
Dulux
"Weathershield" exterior masonry paint is available in small tins and various
colours and this is what we use, very successfully. You will need two or three
coats to make a good covering, but it's worth the effort and it dries quickly.
There are both smooth and textured finishes available. The textured finish looks
very good. |
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